Travel notebook

Guide

The onsen bath, step by step

Finding the right entrance, washing and then bathing properly in an onsen, a sentō or a ryokan, knowing when to skip the bath for health reasons, and what to do if you have a tattoo.

Checked on 15 Sept. 2026

The five key points

  1. You wash fully at a shower station before entering the pool: the bath is for relaxing, not for washing.
  2. Read the kanji on the curtain, not its colour: 男 for men, 女 for women. In a ryokan the two baths are sometimes swapped between evening and morning.
  3. You bathe naked, without a swimsuit. The small towel never touches the water of the pool.
  4. No bath after alcohol, nor just before or just after a meal. Stay in 3 to 10 min the first times, and drink a glass of water before and after.
  5. Tattoos: every establishment sets its own rule. Ask before you go, or book a private bath.

Before you go

Two kinds of public bath, the same gestures everywhere.

  • A 温泉 (onsen) is a hot spring bath. A 銭湯 (sentō) is the neighbourhood public bath, plain and cheap. You wash and bathe the same way in both. 温泉 / 銭湯onsen / sentō Open the source 13
  • In Tōkyō, entry to a sentō costs ¥600 per adult, from age 12, since 1 August 2026. Children aged 6 to 11: ¥200. Under 6: ¥100. That is the official rate for Tōkyō sentō. Elsewhere, and for onsen, check the price posted at the entrance. Open the source 12
  • Do Take a small towel. Most sentō sell towel, soap and shampoo, and some provide them free. Open the source 10
  • Do Small neighbourhood baths often have no shower, soap or towel: bring your own. Open the source 17
  • Do Leave valuables at the hotel. Your passport belongs in a locked locker, or with the front desk. Open the source 10
  • Careful No bath after drinking alcohol. Avoid bathing just before or just after a meal as well. Open the source 1
  • Careful After a walk or sport, rest about 30 min before bathing. If you are very tired, rest first. Open the source 1
  • Do Drink a glass of water before the bath, especially in the morning after waking up. Open the source 1
  • Careful Do you have a tattoo? Check the rule of the place before going, see the “Tattoos” section. Open the source 6

Finding the right entrance

Read the kanji, not the colours.

  • A curtain (暖簾, noren) or a sign marks the entrance: 男湯 (otoko-yu) for men, 女湯 (onna-yu) for women. 男湯 / 女湯otoko-yu / onna-yu Open the source 24
  • Careful The curtain is often blue for men and red for women. That is a habit, not a rule: always trust the kanji 男 and 女. Open the source 7
  • Careful In some ryokan the men's and women's baths are swapped between evening and morning. Read the curtain again each time. A real example: one bath is for women from 3 p.m. to midnight, then for men from 5:30 to 10 a.m. the next day. The other bath does the opposite. Open the source 25
  • A mixed bath is called 混浴 (kon'yoku). If the entrance shows neither 男 nor 女, ask before going in. 混浴kon'yoku Open the source 6

The bath, step by step

You wash first, you bathe afterwards. The pool is for relaxing, not for washing.

  1. Take your shoes off at the entrance and put them in a shoe locker. Keep its key, often a small wooden tag. Open the source 9
  2. Pay at the 番台 (bandai) or at the front desk, then go into the changing room for your sex. 番台bandai Open the source 8
  3. In the changing room (脱衣所, datsuijo), undress completely. Put your clothes in a locker or a basket. Lock the locker and keep the key on your wrist during the bath. 脱衣所datsuijo Open the source 8
  4. Go into the bathing room with the small towel only. Leave everything else in the locker. Open the source 7
  5. Do Pour hot water over your hands and feet, then over your body. This is かけ湯 (kakeyu): it gets the body used to the heat. かけ湯kakeyu Open the source 1
  6. Do Sit on a stool at a shower station. Wash with soap, then rinse off every trace of lather. You never shower standing up. After use, rinse the stool and the basin and put them back. Washing before entering the pool is never a mistake. Open the source 13
  7. Do Tie long hair up with a band: it must not touch the water of the bath. Open the source 15
  8. Do Put the folded small towel on your head or on the edge of the pool. Open the source 27
  9. Do Get into the pool slowly. Stay calm and move as little as possible. Open the source 1
  10. Stay in only briefly: 3 to 10 min the first times, then up to 15 to 20 min once you are used to it. Open the source 1
  11. Careful Get out of the pool slowly, so as not to feel dizzy. Open the source 1
  12. Do Before returning to the changing room, dry yourself with the small towel, so as not to make the floor slippery. Open the source 27
  13. Do Get dressed, drink a glass of water and rest a while. The Ministry of the Environment advises not to rinse the spring water off: dry yourself, stay warm and rest about 30 min. Exception: with sensitive skin and acidic, sulphur or chlorinated water, rinse with hot water. Open the source 1

Do and do not

  • Do In a small neighbourhood bath, greet the regulars when you arrive, with a simple “konnichiwa”, and again when you leave. Open the source 17
  • Do Ask before adding cold water to the pool, see “Useful phrases”. Open the source 17
  • Do not No swimsuit, and no towel wrapped around the body, in the pool. Open the source 13
  • Do not The towel never touches the water of the pool. Open the source 1
  • Do not No phone in the changing room or the bathing room. Photographs are forbidden there, even if the room is empty. In Tōkyō sentō, a photograph taken without the operator's consent counts as illicit filming, 盗撮 (tōsatsu). Open the source 11
  • Do not Do not swim, jump or dive into the pool. Open the source 27
  • Do not Do not run and do not make noise. Open the source 14
  • Do not Do not save a shower station by leaving your things on it. Open the source 13
  • Do not No food and no drink in the bathing room. Open the source 13

Health: the precautions

This advice comes from the display rules of the Ministry of the Environment (環境省), 2014 version, still the most recent.

  • Any place offering a hot spring bath to the public must display its contraindications (禁忌症, kinkishō) and precautions. That is the Hot Spring Act. 禁忌症kinkishō Open the source 2
  • Careful Avoid water at 42 °C or above if you are elderly, if you have high blood pressure or a heart condition, or if you have had a stroke. Open the source 1
  • For reference: in Tōkyō sentō the water is often around 42 °C. Open the source 13
  • Careful No bath if you have a fever, an illness in an acute phase, or visible bleeding. The official list also names: severe heart or lung disease, severe kidney disease with swelling, active tuberculosis, advanced cancer, severe anaemia, digestive bleeding, a flare-up of a chronic illness. Open the source 1
  • Careful Sensitive skin or mucous membranes: avoid acidic waters (酸性泉, sanseisen) and sulphur waters (硫黄泉, iōsen). They are also discouraged for elderly people with dry skin. 酸性泉 / 硫黄泉sanseisen / iōsen Open the source 1
  • Careful Elderly people, children and people with reduced mobility are advised not to bathe alone. Open the source 1
  • Pregnancy: since 2014 it is no longer among the general contraindications. If in doubt, ask your doctor. Open the source 2
  • Careful If you feel dizzy or unwell: call for help, get out slowly with your head low, then lie down. Open the source 1
  • In the first days, one or two baths a day are enough. Once used to it, two or three at most. Open the source 1
  • After a few days of bathing, malaise, sleeplessness, digestive trouble or skin irritation can appear: this is 湯あたり (yuatari). Bathe less often until you recover. These signs usually appear 3 days to a week after starting a spa cure. 湯あたりyuatari Open the source 1

Tattoos

  • Careful The rule varies from place to place: many onsen refuse tattoos, others accept them. Open the source 6
  • The public bath law contains no ban related to tattoos. Each establishment sets its own rule. Open the source 5
  • Do Check the rule on the establishment's website, or write to it before going. Open the source 6
  • In 2016 the tourism agency (観光庁) wrote to the hotel, ryokan and onsen associations: refusing a bath solely because of a tattoo is not appropriate. That is a recommendation, not an obligation: each establishment remains free to set its rule. Open the source 3
  • Solutions used by some establishments: covering the tattoo, allowing small tattoos the size of a palm, setting aside certain hours, offering a private bath. The agency also points out that a tattoo poses no hygiene problem and may have a religious, cultural or fashion reason. Open the source 4
  • Do Tattoo cover stickers are sold online and in the large discount stores. Ask the front desk whether they are accepted. Open the source 6
  • Do The simplest answer: a private bath (貸切風呂, kashikiri-buro) or a room with its own bath. 貸切風呂kashikiri-buro Open the source 4
  • Example: in Kinosaki Onsen the town's seven public baths accept tattoos of any size, uncovered. Ryokan baths may have other rules. Open the source 19

Mixed baths and bathing wear

  • Mixed baths (混浴, kon'yoku) still exist, but you have to look for them. 混浴kon'yoku Open the source 6
  • Some allow a 湯あみ着 (yuamigi), a covering bathing garment. Sometimes only the one rented or sold on site is accepted. Example: at Sukayu Onsen the yuamigi rents for ¥500, for men and women alike, and garments brought from outside are refused. 湯あみ着yuamigi Open the source 18
  • Some mixed baths set aside an hour for women (女性専用, josei sen'yō). Read the notice at the entrance. 女性専用josei sen'yō Open the source 18
  • Surgical scar: there is a special bathing undergarment, the 入浴着 (nyūyokugi). Clean, it poses no hygiene problem. Put it on just before the bath and rinse the soap off carefully before entering the pool. 入浴着nyūyokugi Open the source 20

At a ryokan

A ryokan is the traditional inn: tatami, futons, yukata and a shared bath.

  • Do Take your shoes off at the entrance. Slippers are worn in the corridors, never on tatami. Open the source 21
  • Careful In the toilet, put on the slippers kept at its door. Do not walk out in them: change back as you leave. Open the source 24
  • Do not Do not drag suitcases across tatami: they damage easily. Open the source 22
  • Do Yukata (浴衣): place the right panel against your body first, then fold the left panel over it. A useful check: seen from the front, the edges of the collar draw a lower-case “y”. Keep the collar and the hem closed, as a loosely worn yukata looks careless. 浴衣yukata Open the source 16
  • Do not Never the right panel over the left: that is how the dead are dressed. Open the source 16
  • Do Tie the belt (帯, obi) at the waist for women, on the hips for men. Keep underwear on under the yukata. obi Open the source 16
  • Inside the ryokan people move about in yukata and slippers, to go to the bath for instance. To go outside like that, follow the ryokan's rule. Some regions advise against it. In hot spring towns such as Kinosaki, people stroll in yukata instead, with 下駄 (geta, wooden sandals) lent by the front desk. Open the source 22
  • Do Check the opening hours of the big bath (大浴場, daiyokujō): it may close for part of the night. A real example: open from 3 p.m. to midnight, then from 5:30 to 10 a.m. the next day. 大浴場daiyokujō Open the source 25
  • Depending on the ryokan, dinner is served in the room or in a shared dining room. Open the source 23
  • Careful If dinner is included, arrive before 6 p.m. if you can. Staff often lay out the futons during the meal. Open the source 21
  • The private bath (貸切風呂) is taken alone, as a couple or as a family. It often costs extra and is booked ahead or at the front desk. Open the source 6
  • In some ryokan the private bath is free and unbooked: you turn the 入浴中 sign (nyūyoku-chū, “occupied”) when you go in, and turn it back when you leave. Count on about 30 min per turn. 入浴中nyūyoku-chū Open the source 26
  • Do not Do not hang a wet towel over the door frames: the wood can go mouldy. Open the source 22

Signs to recognise

otokoMan
onnaWoman
yuHot water, bath
男湯 / 女湯otoko-yu / onna-yuMen's bath, women's bath Open the source 24
大浴場daiyokujōLarge shared bath Open the source 21
露天風呂rotenburoOpen-air bath Open the source 21
貸切kashikiriReserved for one group, private bath Open the source 21
脱衣所datsuijoChanging room Open the source 14
入浴中nyūyoku-chūOccupied, someone is bathing Open the source 26
清掃中seisō-chūCleaning in progress, bath closed
混浴kon'yokuMixed bath Open the source 18
女性専用josei sen'yōWomen only Open the source 18
禁忌症kinkishōContraindications, health notice Open the source 1

Useful phrases

Show the Japanese sentence at the front desk.

  • I have a tattoo: may I bathe? タトゥーがあるのですが、入浴できますか。Tatū ga aru no desu ga, nyūyoku dekimasu ka.
  • May I bathe if I cover the tattoo with a sticker? シールで隠せば入浴できますか。Shīru de kakuseba nyūyoku dekimasu ka.
  • Is there a private bath? 貸切風呂はありますか。Kashikiri-buro wa arimasu ka.
  • May I book the private bath at 8 p.m.? 20時に貸切風呂を予約できますか。Nijū-ji ni kashikiri-buro o yoyaku dekimasu ka.
  • Until what time is the bath open? お風呂は何時までですか。O-furo wa nan-ji made desu ka.
  • Which one is the women's bath right now? 今、女湯はどちらですか。Ima, onna-yu wa dochira desu ka.
  • May I borrow a towel? タオルを借りられますか。Taoru o kariraremasu ka.
  • May I add some cold water? 水を入れてもいいですか。Mizu o irete mo ii desu ka. Open the source 17

Sources

  1. 環境省 — display standards for hot spring contraindications and bathing precautions, Hot Spring Act art. 18 (PDF) checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  2. 環境省 — notices and guidelines on the Hot Spring Act checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  3. 観光庁 — 2016 notice to associations on bathing by tattooed foreign visitors (PDF, copy held by Kumamoto prefecture) checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  4. 観光庁 — points to watch and example solutions for tattooed visitors (PDF) checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  5. 熊本県 — public baths and lodgings, information on bathing access checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  6. 港区 (Tokyo) — restrictions on sentō use checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  7. JNTO — Onsen Hot Springs: On Tattoos and Etiquette checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  8. JNTO — A Beginner's Guide to Onsen checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  9. 東京都浴場組合 — 銭湯の入り方 checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  10. 東京都浴場組合 — How to enjoy Sento checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  11. 東京都浴場組合 — phones and photographs forbidden checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  12. 東京都浴場組合 — revision of the Tokyo sentō entry price checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  13. 東京都浴場組合 — About Sento checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  14. 道後温泉, official site — bathing manners checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  15. 城崎温泉観光協会 — the seven manners of the public baths checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  16. Visit Kinosaki (city of Toyooka) — How to Wear a Yukata checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  17. 別府市 tourist information — bathing manners the Beppu way checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  18. 酸ヶ湯温泉旅館, official site — bathing information checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  19. Visit Kinosaki (city of Toyooka) — Tattoo Friendly Onsen of Kinosaki checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  20. 群馬県 — the 入浴着 bathing undergarment checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  21. Go NAGANO (Nagano prefecture) — How to Stay in a Japanese Ryokan checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  22. Aichi Now (Aichi prefecture) — Etiquette for an enjoyable stay at a ryokan checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  23. JNTO — Japanese Ryokan Guide checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  24. Visit Kinosaki (city of Toyooka) — Ryokan Etiquette checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  25. サン柳亭, official site — large bath alternating between men and women checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  26. 松之山温泉 和泉屋, official blog — the 入浴中 sign of the private bath checked on 15 Sept. 2026
  27. Visit Kinosaki (city of Toyooka) — Taking a Japanese Bath checked on 15 Sept. 2026

Shows the sentence in large type, to hold up to the person you are talking to.

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